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The thrummm of the big diesel subsides to a low drone and our forward momentum becomes a gentle rolling motion. In the wake of the motor sounds, the air is filled with the calls of seabirds and the lap of the waves against the hull of our boat. The late afternoon sun is shining brightly on our backs and sparkling on the wet rocks and breaking waves of the island just in front of us. The sky is cobalt fading to cerulean, with just a few wisps of cirrus clouds. Suddenly, a chorus of our fellow passengers, pointing off the left bow, exclaims, "There's one!" All heads turn and we're rewarded with our first puffin sighting, a solitary bird floating about twenty yards from the boat.
My wife, Linda, and I are aboard the Hardy III, a tour boat sailing out of New Harbor in Midcoast Maine. The island is Eastern Egg Rock in Muscongus Bay, the site of the most southerly breeding colony of Atlantic puffins in the world. Unlike their Pacific cousins, the tufted and horned puffins, the breeding range of Atlantic puffins barely makes it into U.S. waters...
...Hardy Boat Tours offers a variety of cruises, including puffin watching excursions, leaving from their home port in New Harbor, on Pemiquid Point. They operate mid-May through Columbus Day weekend, but to see puffins, the best times are June and July. (Puffins are only on the island during their nesting season, after which they go out to sea.)
While reservations are a good idea, you can often walk up to the ticket counter on the Shaw's Fish and Lobster wharf, pay the very affordable fare, and board the boat. Linda and I did the latter on the first free afternoon of our trip. Headed to the grocery store for the makings of dinner, our errand took us past Shaw's wharf. Linda remarked as we passed, "Looks like the puffin watch is getting ready to depart." It was a spectacular afternoon, so we ditched the shopping, did a U-turn and wound up at the ticket counter.
Muscongus is reputed by the locals to be the "calmest bay on the Maine Coast" and this evening, it was indeed quite calm, with just a gentle swell. Despite its reputation, the bay can be rough so it's a good idea to keep an eye seaward on the way to the harbor and plan according to conditions.
Even in calm conditions, you should be prepared for spray and cooler conditions out on the water- it's a good idea to bring a sweater or jacket. The Hardy III has a supply of blankets though, and the lower deck is mostly enclosed, providing shelter from both wind and water, so you can get away with being spontaneous. The trip usually lasts about an hour and a half.